Every mum has a special party dish. This is my mum’s. I’ve seen it come out at birthdays, anniversaries, and weddings, and there is a good reason for this—all our family and friends badger her to cook it. After frying, the fritters are traditionally dipped in water,...
In the 1960s and ’70s when English curry-house menus were first printed and laminated, South Indian food hardly got a second look. The strange outcome of this trend has been that many lovers of Indian food have hardly tried classic South Indian dishes such as sambhar,...
This is an unassuming but gorgeous dal and one of my favorite lentil dishes of all time. A gentle and soothing marriage of soft lentils and earthy cumin and chiles, tempered by butter, it’s old-fashioned home cooking at its best: nourishing, cheap to make, and...
The smell of roasted pumpkin, and curry leaves sizzling in coconut oil, is enough to make anyone want to go to Kerala, which is where a variation of this dish, known as “olan,” originates. The sweet pumpkin, earthy beans, and creamy coconut come together to create a...
In England, we usually treat mustard as a condiment—highly dangerous and to be eaten in small quantities. But in Bengal they make wonderful dishes using mustard in large amounts, as the lead flavor. In this recipe, the mustard and yogurt come together to make a...
VEGAN /// MAKES 6 GENEROUS SERVINGS Because there are fresh fava beans in this beautiful, light spring couscous, I only use 1 cup of dried beans. The harissa is optional because I don’t like to overpower the sweetness of the spring vegetables. Use it if you want the...
VEGAN /// MAKES 6 GENEROUS SERVINGS If you want a spicier couscous, use more harissa. I prefer to make a mildly seasoned stew and let guests add more harissa to taste. I use chickpeas most often for my couscous stews. 1½ cups dried chickpeas, white beans, or other...
VEGAN WITHOUT THE YOGURT GARNISH /// MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS This is a thick pot of lentils seasoned with coriander seeds, cumin, and Aleppo pepper or chili. The lentils are cooked until just about softened, then lightly browned onions and spices are stirred in. In many...
VEGAN WITHOUT THE EGGS /// MAKES 4 SERVINGS A stir-fry is a good home for okra because you cook it so quickly that there’s no time for slime to emerge. It’s nice and crunchy and complements the cherry tomatoes beautifully. But seek out the smallest okra you can find,...
MAKES 5 TO 6 SERVINGS Brussels sprouts have enjoyed renewed favor over the years as cooks have been treating them with respect, searing and roasting them rather than overcooking them. In this beautiful black and white and green mixed-grains risotto, you sear the...
