Many a time when I was growing up, my mum would tell my dad to stop the car alongside a mustard field in Lincolnshire while she ran in, gleefully bounced around, and stole some leaves for dinner. In her defense, back then no one but Indians really ate these leaves, so...
Indian supermarkets can look pretty intimidating to the uninitiated—packed full of odd fruits and weird brands. On my list of recommended things to buy would be fenugreek. It’s a bitter leaf with a strong taste that transforms into something discrete and magical when...
In Gujarat, cabbages and potatoes are near deities. In Lincolnshire, where they are the main crops, the same is true. I feel as though my bones, and the bones of my ancestors, are partly made up of these two vegetables. When you want something simple, not much beats a...
Ben Benton is one of the greatest chefs I know. This is his recipe, and although he is not Keralan, he has a tremendous ability to get under the skin of the cuisine. He taught me that by grilling the cut sides of cabbage a whole new side of its personality is...
A thoran is a sort of quick Keralan stir-fry. Here it involves cooking shredded sprouts hard and fast, then tossing them with some sweet onions and the lively flavors of curry leaves, chile, lemon, and coconut. This is Kerala, via wintry England, on a plate. This dish...
Take a journey to Kerala using vegetables from a local farmers’ market. If you like your curries to be gentle and flavorful but light and packed full of vitality, this is the one for you. You can use any assortment of vegetables for this dish, but just remember to...
One of my favorite places in Mumbai is Chor Bazaar, or Thieves Market. It used to be where the vagabonds and villains in the city would offload their stolen loot. These days you can find ancient tiffin boxes and all sorts of knick-knacks there, and right in the midst...
I first ate this dish when out with friends at a restaurant called Chulha in Goa. One bite and the conversation faded while this broccoli and I had a real moment together. The key to making this dish great is cramming the mixture into the nooks and crannies of the...
The recipe was inspired by some okra I ate at my favorite restaurant in Goa, called Gunpowder. It is okra and potatoes like you’ve never seen them, as if they’ve been given a glamorous Hollywood makeover: tossed in cumin seeds, curry leaves, and garlic, then flavored...
In Lincolnshire, the first zucchini of the season are met with wild enthusiasm, which quickly turns to apprehension because of the constant challenge of finding new and interesting ways to cook them. Over the years, this is the dish my family never tires of. The kofta...
At the age of eighty-three, my grandma has somewhat unreliable hips, but I’ve never seen her move so quickly to the dinner table as when this curry is on the menu. It’s not just one of her favorites, it’s also on the A-list of curries for a lot of Gujaratis. There are...
Wild mushoom textures and flavors vary so dramatically, it’s really worth experimenting to see what you enjoy. My favorite is the ridiculously elegant chanterelle, the Chanel of the mushroom world, followed closely by the big, bulbous cep, which is meaty and looks...