Everyone’s favorite summer fruit, spiced up. Makes 4 glasses 1 pint strawberries4 tablespoons water or milk2 cups plain Greek yogurt½ teaspoon ground cardamom (or finely ground seeds from 6 pods)4 tablespoons sugar Wash the strawberries, remove the green tops, then...
LENTIL FRITTERS WITH YOGURT + CHUTNEYS
Every mum has a special party dish. This is my mum’s. I’ve seen it come out at birthdays, anniversaries, and weddings, and there is a good reason for this—all our family and friends badger her to cook it. After frying, the fritters are traditionally dipped in water,...
BUTTERNUT SQUASH, EGGPLANT, + RED LENTIL SAMBHAR
In the 1960s and ’70s when English curry-house menus were first printed and laminated, South Indian food hardly got a second look. The strange outcome of this trend has been that many lovers of Indian food have hardly tried classic South Indian dishes such as sambhar,...
MOONG DAL WITH A GARLIC + CUMIN TARKA
This is an unassuming but gorgeous dal and one of my favorite lentil dishes of all time. A gentle and soothing marriage of soft lentils and earthy cumin and chiles, tempered by butter, it’s old-fashioned home cooking at its best: nourishing, cheap to make, and...
STICKY MANGO PANEER SKEWERS
Jim Pizer is more Indian than a lot of Indians I know. While growing up he was in and out of his Indian friends’ houses in Birmingham, eating their mums’ home cooking, and was so disappointed with the state of Indian food in restaurants in the UK that he decided to...
ASPARAGUS + PEAS IN A BENGALI MUSTARD SAUCE
In England, we usually treat mustard as a condiment—highly dangerous and to be eaten in small quantities. But in Bengal they make wonderful dishes using mustard in large amounts, as the lead flavor. In this recipe, the mustard and yogurt come together to make a...
RAINBOW CHARD SAAG ALOO
I’ll never forget my mum’s head-turning squeal when she saw a bag of Desiree potatoes marked “grown in Lincolnshire” in the aisle of a London supermarket. She’s evangelical about their butteriness, and proud of the fact they’re grown near our family home, so this...
SAVOY CABBAGE, BLACK KALE, + POTATO SUBJI
In Gujarat, cabbages and potatoes are near deities. In Lincolnshire, where they are the main crops, the same is true. I feel as though my bones, and the bones of my ancestors, are partly made up of these two vegetables. When you want something simple, not much beats a...
GRILLED SWEETHEART CABBAGE + COCONUT THORAN
Ben Benton is one of the greatest chefs I know. This is his recipe, and although he is not Keralan, he has a tremendous ability to get under the skin of the cuisine. He taught me that by grilling the cut sides of cabbage a whole new side of its personality is...
ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLE MADRAS
You don’t have to use baby vegetables for this dish. I use them because they’re sweet and beautiful, but you could use larger roots and cut them down to size. Serves 4 2¼ pounds mix of baby carrots, parsnips, turnips, and potatoes canola oil 2 teaspoons ground cumin...