These wafers are crafted from plain or seasoned doughs based on dal (lentils). Preparing them from scratch is time-consuming, so they are most commonly purchased pre-shaped and sun-dried.
There are two main regional varieties:
- Paparh (North India): These are larger, typically 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in diameter, and are liberally spiced with ingredients like crushed red peppers or cracked black pepper.
- Pappadam (South India): These are usually smaller, 3 to 5 inches (7 to 12 cm) in diameter, and are unseasoned.
For those new to them, I suggest trying the plain, black pepper, and red pepper varieties. Avoid the spice blends, which can sometimes be overloaded with garlic and onions.
Though not technically breads, these thin wafers are eaten like bread, usually served at the beginning or end of a meal. They can be cooked in two ways: deep-frying (which makes them light and crisp) or open-heat toasting (which adds charcoal flavors and is excellent for low-fat diets).
Cooking time: A few seconds each if deep-fried; a few minutes each if flame-toasted. Allowance: 0.5 to 1 wafer per person, depending on size.
To Deep-Fry
- Pour ghee or vegetable oil into a large frying pan to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm). Place the pan over moderately high heat.
- When the oil is hot (360°F or 180°C), slip in one dal wafer. It will immediately sizzle, begin to expand, and may curl around the edges.
- Using the back of a large spatula or slotted frying spoon, exert gentle pressure on the wafer’s surface. Within 5 seconds, it will turn crisp and slightly lighten in color.
- Remove the wafer at once. Do not allow it to turn brown; it should remain a light yellow-gold color.
- Drain the wafer on its side, either on paper towels or in a colander lined with paper towels.
- Fry the remaining pieces, taking care not to let the hot oil reach its smoking point. The wafers will remain crisp for 1 to 2 hours.
To Toast (Over Open Flame)
- Place a single dal wafer on a wire rack. Hold the rack approximately 2 inches (5 cm) above an electric or gas burner set on high heat.
- The areas of the wafer exposed to the heat will lighten in color, expand, and become flecked with black spots. You must constantly move the wafer around to cook it evenly and keep it from burning.
- Flip the wafer over to cook the second side in the same manner.
- The finished wafer should be brittle but not brown; it should remain yellowish with charred flecks on both sides. Stack the wafers as they cook.
