This beet raita is loud and proud in color and flavor. I like to eat it just by itself with a little naan, or as an accompaniment to kebabs, dals, or greens. Serves 4 as a side (and can be doubled easily) 2 tablespoons canola oil1 clove of garlic, sliced wafer thin½...
A new pretender to the raita throne is this sweet, hot, earthy number. Sunshine in a bowl. Serves 4 as a side 1 tablespoon canola oil1 teaspoon black mustard seeds¾ cup fresh pineapple, cut into small chunks2–3 teaspoons sugar1 tablespoon lemon juice1/3 teaspoon...
Serves 4 as a side (and can be doubled easily) 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, plus extra to serve½ cucumber, plus extra to serve (about 4 ounces)1 generous cup plain Greek yogurtlarge handful fresh mint leaves, shredded1/3 teaspoon salt Place a frying pan over medium heat...
This is a great delicacy, and also a pickle with a purpose. Turmeric has been heralded as a hero in the kitchen, a fighter against all ills. A little of this earthy pickle on your plate will go a long way. Watch out when you’re cooking with it, though: turmeric will...
This chutney is a Gujarati favorite, made when the first mangoes of the season arrive. I asked my 83-year-old grandmother to show me how to make it. “I don’t remember how to,” she said, but amazingly, her hands rhythmically chopped the mango and stirred in the...
This is a wonderful pickle. Tangy, pungent, and delicious, it’s long-lasting too. Makes a large jar (around 32 ounces) 2 pounds lemons½ cup canola oil30 fresh curry leaves2 teaspoons mustard seeds½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds¾-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated5...
In this time of being able to access most fruit and veg all year round, forced rhubarb remains staunch in only making a brief appearance each year from late January to April. When it does, I want to preserve as much of it as possible, but despite my best intentions,...
In Kolkata there is a restaurant called Kasturi that has no menu. The chef there cooks some of the best food I’ve had, and always serves this pineapple and ginger chutney to boot. It really does go with anything—I’ve eaten it with fish, meat, and dosas, and it makes a...
Hot, salty, and vinegary, this addictive pickle can perk up the dullest of things. Makes a large jar (around 32 ounces) ½ small cauliflower (9 ounces)½ pound radishes2 medium carrots½ cup canola oil1 tablespoon mustard seeds3 whole Kashmiri chiles, broken into pieces1...
Fresh, creamy, hot, and the perfect accompaniment to the dosas here and here. This is a fresh chutney, so it won’t keep long and ideally needs to be made on the day of eating. NOTE: You will need a blender for this recipe. Serves 2 1 Indian green chile1¾ cups fresh...
Adding pungent mustard to hot chiles doesn’t sound as though it should work, but the combination is sublime. A couple of days’ fermenting with some lemon juice and salt really rounds the edges off the chiles and creates a champion worthy of a daily spot on the kitchen...
A tongue-tickler of a pickle: it’s fresh, bright, zesty, and hot. The ajwain seeds add a distinct flavor, not dissimilar to thyme. I am partial to using this pickle to liven up sandwiches and simple subjis with its salty and sour heat. It takes a couple of days to...