Wherever Indian snack sellers congregate, such as Chowpatty Beach in Bombay, you are likely to find some version of these bondas. Round in shape, with a chickpea flour skin on the outside and spicy crushed potatoes inside, they are served still hot and crisp from the karhais (woks) in which they are fried. Very popular in western and southern India, they are eaten with chutneys, such as Simple Tamarind Chutney, Green Chutney, Fresh Cilantro, Ginger, and Coconut Chutney, and Red Chutney from the Konkan Coast.
MAKES 16 BONDAS
• 1½ lbs unpeeled waxy potatoes (I use red ones), freshly boiled and cooled
• 2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
• Generous pinch of ground asafetida
• ¼ teaspoon whole brown or yellow mustard seeds
• 4 tablespoons finely chopped onions
• 2 teaspoons peeled and very finely chopped fresh ginger
• 1–2 fresh green chilies, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 1½–2 teaspoons lime or lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
• Olive or peanut oil, for deep-frying
• FOR THE BATTER
• 1¼ cups chickpea flour (besan or gram flour)
• ¼ cup rice flour (also called rice powder)
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon ajowan seeds
• Generous pinch of ground asafetida
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1. Peel the cooked and cooled potatoes and crush them. You are aiming for a very coarse version of mashed potatoes.
2. Put the 2 tablespoons of oil in a medium, preferably nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the asafetida. A second later, add the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, a matter of seconds, add the onions, ginger, green chilies, cumin, and fresh cilantro. Stir for a minute. Add the crushed potatoes, lime juice, and salt. Turn the heat to low and mix all the ingredients well. Taste for balance of flavors and make adjustments, if needed. Set aside until cool enough to handle, then make 16 balls, each about 1½ inches in diameter. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
3. Combine all the ingredients for the batter in a bowl. Slowly add water, about 2 tablespoons less than 1 cup, mixing and breaking up any lumps as you go. You should have a thick but flowing batter.
4. Put a 2 inch depth of oil in a deep frying pan, wok, or karhai and set over medium-low heat. Give it time to get hot.
5. Dip a potato ball in the batter, making sure it is well covered. Carefully lower it into the hot oil. Do this rapidly with half the balls. Fry, turning frequently for 5–6 minutes or until the outside batter looks crisp. It should not turn dark. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. Make a second batch the same way.
6. Serve while still crisp and hot.
