A Taste of the Monsoons in Coorg
Imagine the misty, rain-drenched hills of Coorg in Southern India. During the four-month monsoon, when the dense forests surrounding the coffee plantations come alive, a beautiful tradition unfolds. Locals, both rich and poor, forage for nature’s bounty, discovering delicacies like wild mushrooms, tender bamboo shoots, and delicate ferns.
Among the landed gentry, a favorite ritual is to take the largest foraged mushrooms—like the prized aalandi kumme—and hold them over a crackling wood fire until perfectly singed and smoky. Dressed simply with crushed green chilies, a squeeze of lime, and salt, they are served alongside evening drinks, their savory juices a delicacy in themselves.
While we may not have access to these specific wild mushrooms, we can capture the essence of this rustic, elegant dish in our own kitchens. Using large, meaty portobello mushrooms, we can recreate that smoky char and vibrant flavor. This recipe is my homage to that beautiful tradition—perfect as a sophisticated appetizer for guests or a simple, flavorful first course.
Ingredients
• 4 large portobello mushrooms, about 12–13 oz or 350g total
• 2 tablespoons or 30 ml olive or peanut oil
• ¾ teaspoon or 4g salt, or to taste
• 4 teaspoons or 20 ml fresh lime juice, or to taste
• 2 fresh hot green chilies, pounded to a paste, or 1–2 pinches Kashmiri red chili powder
Instructions
1. Position an oven rack 4–5 inches (10-12 cm) from the heat source and preheat the broiler until very hot.
2. Gently break off and discard the mushroom stems. Wipe the caps clean with a damp paper towel and let them air dry for a few minutes.
3. Place the mushroom caps, gill side up, on a baking sheet. Brush them with 1 tablespoon of oil.
4. Broil for about 1½ minutes, or until the gills are well singed and fragrant. Carefully flip the caps over.
5. Brush the smooth side of the caps with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and broil for another 1½ minutes until they have a beautiful char.
6. Transfer the hot mushrooms to a serving plate, placing them gill side up. Immediately sprinkle with half the salt, half the lime juice, and half the chili paste or powder. Gently spread the seasonings over the gills with your fingers or a small brush.
7. Turn the mushrooms over and season the other side with the remaining salt, lime juice, and chili. Serve immediately.
Nutritional Information
• (per serving)
• Calories: 95 kcal
• Protein: 3 g
• Carbohydrates: 4 g
• Fat: 8 g
• Sodium: 440 mg
Pro Tips
• For an even smokier flavor, cook the mushrooms on a hot barbecue grill instead of under the broiler.
• To serve as a canapé, slice the cooked mushrooms into wedges and insert a cocktail stick into each piece.
• For a milder heat, be sure to remove the seeds from the green chilies before pounding them into a paste.
• The delicious juices released by the mushrooms are meant to be savored. Serve with crusty bread for dipping.
• If you can’t find large portobellos, large porcini mushrooms are an excellent substitute. Smaller mushrooms also work, just reduce the broiling time slightly.
