An inspired and variable mixture of vegetables, nuts, legumes, noodles, chutneys, and, most importantly, puffed rice, jhal moori is Calcutta street food par excellence, a kind of nutritious Bengali salad. It can be picked up from a vendor and eaten as a snack while on an evening stroll; office workers might have it in the afternoon with their tea or even gobble some up for lunch.
I have eaten it at all these times, but now I find myself frequently making it as a first course at home when I am entertaining. I like to assemble all the parts in advance and put them together at the last minute. The salad holds well for 10–15 minutes but gradually begins to get soggy. It still tastes excellent 2 hours later, but loses all its crispness. This mixture is also very good on top of lightly dressed salad greens for lunch.
If you do not have the chutneys mentioned, just leave them out. The salad will still taste just fine.
SERVES 6
• About 3 seedless baby cucumbers (1 cup or 4½ oz), cut into ⅓ inch dice
• ½ cup onion, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice
• 1 cup firm tomatoes, cut into ⅓ inch dice
• 1 medium waxy potato (about 6 oz), freshly boiled, cooled, peeled, and cut into ¼ inch dice
• ½–1 fresh hot green chili, finely sliced crosswise (optional)
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• ¼ teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds (see this page)
• Freshly ground black pepper
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon chaat masala
• 1–3 generous pinches of nice red chili powder
• ½ teaspoon Simple Tamarind Chutney (optional)
• ½ teaspoon Green Chutney (optional)
• 1 teaspoon mustard oil (for a true Bengali taste) or extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon lime juice, plus 1 teaspoon extra if not using the chutneys
• 2 cups puffed rice
1. Put the cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, potatoes, chilies (if using), and fresh cilantro into a large bowl.
2. Put the cumin, pepper, salt, chaat masala, and chili powder in a small bowl.
3. Have the chutneys, mustard oil, and lime juice at the ready.
4. Put a wok or medium frying pan over medium heat and let it get hot. Add the puffed rice and stir it about for 3–4 minutes, or until it crisps up a bit. It should not change color. Empty into a bowl and set aside.
5. Now you need just a few minutes to throw the jhal moori together. Add the dry spices and puffed rice to the cucumber mixture. Also add the chutneys (if using), mustard oil, and lime juice. Toss well to mix. Taste the balance of seasonings and serve.
