Meera Prasad is a very successful doctor in Bangalore. She belongs to a community of Shivalli Brahmins whose main temple, dedicated to Lord Krishna, is in Udupi, in northern Karnataka. Hundreds of people are fed at the temple daily, and it is here that young men come to study for two much-admired futures—priesthood and the culinary arts.
The Udupi chefs have introduced South Indian food to the rest of India and to much of the world through chains with names like Udupi and Woodlands. The famous Mavalli Tiffin Rooms in Bangalore are also owned by Shivalli Brahmins.
Pallyas are dry dishes made with coconut, which makes them slightly sweet, and with ground mustard seeds, which gives them a touch of bitterness. Indians not only like the bitter flavor, they consider it healing.
SERVES 4
• 2¼ cups green beans (round or flat), cut crosswise into ¼ inch pieces
• 1¼ teaspoons whole brown mustard seeds
• 1–2 hot dried red chilies, broken into small pieces
• 4 tablespoons fresh grated coconut, or defrosted if frozen
• 1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil
• ¼ teaspoon urad dal
• About 10 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand
• ½ teaspoon salt
1. Put the green beans into a steamer and steam them for about 12 minutes or until they are tender.
2. Meanwhile, put 1 teaspoon of the mustard seeds into a small mortar and pound them until well crushed. Add the red chilies and pound until they are well crushed. Now add the coconut and crush it as much as you can. (Alternatively, you could put the mustard seeds and red chilies in a clean coffee grinder or spice mill and whiz until they become a coarse powder. (Add the coconut and whiz again.) Set aside.
3. When the beans are done, take them out of the steaming water. Put the oil into a medium-sized frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the urad dal. As soon as it starts to change color, add the remaining ¼ teaspoon of mustard seeds. When they pop, in a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care, as these will splutter). About 3 seconds after that, add all the green beans. Sprinkle with the salt and stir for about 2 minutes.
4. Take the pan off the heat and add the crushed mixture from the mortar. Stir a few times to mix thoroughly. Serve hot, warm, or, in the summer, at room temperature.
