When an Indian child fighting with another Indian child says, “I am going to make a bharta out of you,” he or she means that the intention is to make a mash out of the other child. This is my way of explaining that bhartas are mashed vegetables, seasoned in a variety of ways.
We in the northern half of India (Punjab, Delhi, and Uttar Pradesh) usually eat bhartas with flatbreads, while people in other areas (Bihar, Orissa, and West Bengal) eat them with rice. Here I have cooked the bharta partly in the Delhi way and partly in the Bengali way. If you want more of the Bengali flavor, cook this bharta in mustard oil.
Note that it really helps to use a large, well-seasoned or nonstick wok, karhai, or frying pan here.
SERVES 3–4
• 2 lbs. eggplants (I used 3 medium purple ones)
• 4 tablespoons olive, peanut, or mustard oil
• ½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
• ½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
• ¼ teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
• 1 large onion (7–8 oz), peeled and finely chopped
• One 3-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
• 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and very finely chopped
• 1–2 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped
• 2 good-sized tomatoes (about ¾ lb in all), peeled and finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Using a fork, prick the eggplants all over. Place them in a roasting pan in the oven for 1¼ hours or until tender. Peel them and chop them finely.
3. Put the oil in a nonstick wok, karhai, or frying pan and place over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the cumin seeds. Let them sizzle for 3–4 seconds, then add the fennel and nigella seeds. After 2 seconds, add the onions, stirring and sautéing for 5–6 minutes, until just starting to brown at the edges.
4. Now add the ginger, garlic, and green chilies. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and keep cooking for 5–6 minutes or until the tomatoes soften.
5. Add the eggplant and salt, and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and cook for another 3 minutes.