It is Indian restaurants in the West, particularly Britain, that have popularized onion bhajias as a first course. That name comes from western India, where all varieties of fritters are called bhajias and eaten at teatime or as a snack with lots of hot chutney for dipping.
In most of northern India, fritters made with potatoes, green beans, eggplant, and other vegetables are known as “pakoras” or “pakoris” and eaten as a snack at teatime, and with drinks (both soft and alcoholic).
In Bengal, where fritters are known as “bhaja,” they can, indeed, be a first course, eaten with rice and dal, the soft and the crunchy together considered a perfect balance. They may also be offered at jalkhabar, the midmorning snack. Bengalis prepare all manner of vegetable fritters, including those made with potato skins and dusted with kalonji, or nigella seeds.
In the south, where the fritters have a variety of names, including “vepadu,” they are often an essential part of the meal, along with popadams, providing crunch and texture to the more soft and flowing rices and dals.
The flour used to bind the fritters is usually the nutritious chickpea flour, rice flour, or a combination of the two.
Serve piping hot with Green Chutney and/or Simple Tamarind Chutney, diluting every tablespoon of the latter with a tablespoon of water.
MAKES 12 MEDIUM-SIZED FRITTERS
• 3 smallish onions (about 8 oz in all), peeled and cut into ⅛ inch rounds (you could use a mandoline here) and the rounds cut into halves
• ⅛–¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder
• 1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 fresh hot green chili, cut into fine rounds (optional)
• ½ teaspoon ground cumin
• Generous pinch of ground turmeric
• 4 tablespoons chickpea flour (besan or gram flour)
• ⅓ teaspoon salt
• Olive or peanut oil, for deep-frying
1. Put the onions, chili powder, ginger, fresh cilantro, green chilies (if using), cumin, and turmeric into a bowl. Toss lightly to mix. Dust with the chickpea flour but do not mix it in yet. About 15 minutes before eating, add the salt. Now mix thoroughly with your hands, mashing the seasonings and flour into the onions. Do this for about 5 minutes or until you draw out enough water from the onions to be able to hold the slices together in cohesive lumps.
2. Put a ½ inch depth of oil in a medium frying pan and set over medium heat.
3. Meanwhile, make 12 rough patties from the onion mixture, placing them in a single layer on a cutting board or plate as you make them. Onion pieces will stick out, but that is how it should be.
4. When the oil is hot, turn the heat to medium low and put in half the patties in a single layer. Fry for 1 minute on the first side. Turn the patties over and fry for another minute on the second side. Turn again and fry for another 30 seconds or so on each side. The patties should be reddish gold and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. Make a second batch the same way.
5. Serve hot with chutney on the side, as suggested on the previous page.
