No matter how much you try not to get drawn into a carpet-buying trip by a well-meaning Kashmiri man in Delhi, you will probably at some point end up in a carpet shop. On the bright side, the Kashmiri tea they serve is a delicacy, rarely found outside of these shops, so enjoy it.

Makes 4 cups

6 cardamom pods
1 tablespoon sugar (plus extra to taste)
1¾-inch cinnamon stick
20 saffron strands
2 green tea bags, or 2 teaspoons green tea leaves
1 tablespoon flaked almonds

Bash the cardamom pods with a mortar and pestle until cracked. Place in a saucepan with a quart of cold water, the sugar, cinnamon stick, and saffron, and bring to a boil. Boil for a couple of minutes, then turn the heat down and simmer for 5 minutes.

Take off the heat, add the tea, then leave to brew for 2 minutes if using bags, and 5 minutes if using leaves. Strain into cups, sprinkling a little flaked almond onto each one. Serve with extra sugar so people can sweeten the tea to their taste.