A new pretender to the raita throne is this sweet, hot, earthy number. Sunshine in a bowl.

Serves 4 as a side

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
¾ cup fresh pineapple, cut into small chunks
2–3 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/3 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ an Indian green chile
1 generous cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt
1/3 teaspoon salt

Put the oil into a frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds, and when the seeds pop, add the pineapple. Stir-fry for around 4 minutes, until the pineapple starts to soften and turn translucent. Then add the sugar, lemon juice, turmeric, and green chile, and cook for another minute. Take off the heat and transfer to a bowl.

Smash the pineapple with a fork so that it disintegrates and becomes juicy. Add the yogurt and salt, then taste and adjust the sugar and salt if need be.