I first ate this dish when out with friends at a restaurant called Chulha in Goa. One bite and the conversation faded while this broccoli and I had a real moment together. The key to making this dish great is cramming the mixture into the nooks and crannies of the broccoli florets and not being afraid to char the edges.

Serves 6 as a side

1½ pounds broccoli florets
8 ounces cream cheese (1 cup)
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon ground cardamom (or finely ground seeds from 8 pods)
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 of a whole nutmeg, grated
4 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt
¾ cup ground almonds
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 400°F and line two large baking pans with parchment paper.

Break the florets into bite-sized pieces. Place all the ingredients except the florets in a bowl and mix well. Then add the florets and mix with your hands—make sure the mixture gets into all the nooks and crannies of the broccoli.

Roast for 10 minutes, turn the pieces over, and cook for a further 10 minutes, or until the broccoli is tender, crunchy, and charred in places.

Pile the broccoli up high in a bowl or on a plate and serve.